Everything you read about the 'assault on the senses' is true. Everything you read about the ‘beauty’, ‘culture’, blah-blah, is also probably true. India is most definitely a 'marmite' experience! Its’ extremes make it difficult to sit on the fence. I love India. Even with an occasional ‘challenging’ lavatory experience. I have travelled in India now on three separate occasions, in three separate guises and have had three completely different experiences! Make of them what you will.